The Tatacoa Desert – A Complete Travel Guide
Nestled in the heart of Colombia lies the Tatacoa Desert, a captivating destination that stands apart from the conventional tourist spots.
With its otherworldly sand formations, ranging from hues of red to mesmerizing shades of grey, this dry tropical forest unveils a unique geological marvel shaped by the forces of wind and rain. The Tatacoa Desert boasts a kaleidoscope of colors owing to the rich mineral content in its soil.
Backpackers who want to embark on a journey through stunning trails and intricate labyrinths, where the desert reveals beauty, will love that they made the effort to get here.
Like a lot of the best destinations in Colombia it takes a bit of work to get here, but I really think you will be glad you made the effort. I know I did.
How To Get To The Tatacoa Desert
In order to get to the Tatacoa Desert you can take a very long bus trip from the major cities of Bogota, Medellin or Cali.
You will have to go to the city of Neiva and then get a connecting shuttle directly to the desert.
The bus ticket will range in price from $25USD to $50USD depending on your starting point and the time of year you are making the trip.
The bus ride from Bogota is about 6 hours.
From Medellin about 10 hours.
From Cali, the bus will take about 9 hours to get to the desert.
And from Popayan the bus trip to Neiva is about 6.5 hours
(all times are approximate)

These are all approximate driving times. There might be construction or protests(this happened to me) that can cause delays. Taking a bus in Colombia can be an adventure.
So you are in for a long drive. IF there is a benefit to taking a bus you do get to see the beautiful landscapes of Colombia on the trip.
The other option is to fly into Benito Salas Airport in Neiva. However, only Bogota offers a direct flight. The cost is from $40 USD to $75 USD one way from Bogota and only takes about 1 hour.
All other flights go through Bogota and take a lot longer. So it might not be worth doing.
Is The Tatacoa Desert Worth Visiting?
I think a trip to the Tatacoa desert is worth doing. Of course this depends on how much time you have for your backpacking trip in Colombia. If you are lucky enough to have more than 2 weeks to explore the various parts of Colombia you could certainly fit it in depending on what you want to see and experience.
I went as part of my trip that included stops in Cali, Popayan, and San Agustin. I went from San Agustin to Neiva by bus and that drive only took about 4 hours. In Colombia this is a very short bus ride!
The breathtaking landscape of Tatacoa is a testament to the transformative power of time. Once a thriving tropical rainforest teeming with colorful flowers, dense greenery, and rich biodiversity, this locale has evolved into a mesmerizing arid marvel over thousands of years.
The Significance for Travelers: For those venturing to Colombia, understanding the unique importance of the Tatacoa Desert is crucial. In this quirkily beautiful expanse, travelers can immerse themselves in an unparalleled experience of stillness, solitude, and a terrain that stands in stark contrast to any other on the planet.
Celestial Wonders and Night Sky Observation: Beyond its terrestrial wonders, Tatacoa emerges as one of the world’s premier destinations for stargazing. With several renowned observatories dotting the landscape, visitors can marvel at the celestial display above, making Tatacoa a haven for astronomy enthusiasts.
Paleontological Treasures: Adding to its allure, Tatacoa holds a treasure trove of pristine fossils belonging to ancient vertebrates. The desert’s sands have preserved the remnants of prehistoric life, offering a unique window into the Earth’s distant past.
For those of you willing to get away from the main cities and make the journey you will not be disappointed.
What Is There To Do in The Tatacoa Desert?
After the long journey to actually get here you will be staying at least one night, maybe two if you really enjoy solitude and the night sky.
So what should you do when you are there?
Here are some suggestions and tips to keep in mind when visiting Tatacoa.
It is hot. Temps can climb well into the 30’s Celsius (this in the 90’s Fahrenheit). So you need water, a mineral based sunscreen, a hat and some sun protective clothing.
1. Hike in The Red Desert
The renowned section of Tatacoa, famously called Cuzco, is the Red Desert, adorned with numerous vantage points along the route offering breathtaking views of the surreal landscape. The distinctive red hues originate from the presence of iron, infusing the soil with ochre, rust, and copper shades. Noteworthy viewpoints include Mirador El Cuzco and Mirador Laberinto.
Go To The Grey Desert
Located approximately 30 minutes away by car from the Red Desert, the Grey Desert of Tatacoa boasts a landscape that feels even more surreal.
Affectionately nicknamed ‘The Valley of Ghosts’ due to its distinctive shapes, this area offers a short trail with astonishing, moon-like scenery for exploration. Going at sunset is a great experience as the colors are wonderful at this time of day.
Stargaze in the Tatacoa Desert
Due to its secluded setting and unspoiled character, the Tatacoa Desert experiences minimal light pollution. This renders it one of the premier stargazing destinations in South America.
Head to the observation tower for an informative session and a glimpse through one of the six massive telescopes. Under ideal conditions, you might even discern the galaxy with the naked eye. However, a full moon or cloud cover can pose challenges, making it considerably harder to observe the stars.
Accommodation Options in the Tatacoa Desert
You have two choices for overnight stays: within the Tatacoa Desert itself(I did this) or in Villavieja, a small town about 10 minutes by tuk-tuk from the desert. I really suggest considering at least one night, preferably two, within Tatacoa due to the considerable travel time required to reach this destination.
In Villavieja there are a couple of hostels and a few hotels. A couple do have a pool which might be nice for cooling off after a hot day of exploring the various areas of the desert.
I stayed in a hostel right in Tatacoa. I am pretty sure it was Alojamiento Casa de campo los Cactus.
It was “rustic”. But not in a bad way. It had a a large outdoor area for sitting and socializing. You could buy a cold cerveza(always important), there are a few different rooms to choose from. But I chose the outside sleeping area that had hammocks that were perched quite high off the ground. It was a pretty good set up. A few others that had their own tents set them up and slept in them. Oh, they also had some talking parrots(?) that were quite entertaining.
Conclusion
I think you will enjoy a trip to the Tatacoa Desert. It takes a bit of work to get there but it is a place unlike many others.
It is always just good to get away from the standard backpacking places that most people go.
Slow down, stargaze and enjoy the otherworldly landscapes that Tatacoa has to offer.
Have you been to the Tatacoa Desert or are you thinking about going? Let me know in the comments.
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